Tuesday, June 14, 2016

It's a Little Known Fact

These are things we took note of while traveling.  Obviously, these aren't absolutes, but we saw them enough that I believe it's right.

Scotland:
  • Speed limits and distances are in MPH and Miles, not km as expected
  • The middle stripe on the road is white, so it's always a mystery if you're driving down a two-way road or a one-way road.  Lotsa fun. 
  • Cheap to travel here - food and drink is inexpensive (especially scotch)
  •  Foods readily available: Pub, Curry, Italian
  • Haggis was on most menus
  • Highways are called carriageways
  • Exits off the carriageways had countdowns by having signs with 3 slashes, then 2 slashes, and then 1 slash right before the exit.  Same with decreased speed limits.
  • Traffic lights turn red, then yellow, then green
  • Lotsa Roundabouts
  • Many parking spots on the sides of the motorways and carriageways
  • Roads are well signed and organized
  • Pop 80's music is popular
  • Many whiskey choices, but not much in the way of beer/wine
  • Tipping is not a thing - only if you get superb service
  • Due to no tipping - 99% of places you get a table, then walk up to the bar to order.  They don't come to you.
  • Amazing dairy products - ice cream and butter - YUM
  • Toilets flush weird... can't explain it - would have to witness it.  
  • In June it's light a LOT.  dark after 11 and light around 3 AM.
  • Very similar flora to Oregon and Washington
  • Tattoos are popular
  • Showers have "instant hot power showers" attached to them...  they're generally NOT "powerful" to American standards.  I can't image what it would be like without the power showers.
  • Businesses/coffee shopes/ gas stations don't open early - plan on waiting until 9 in most small towns.
  • They recycle
  • Barware matches contents.  Guinness in a Guinness glass, Coors Light in a Coors light glass, etc.
  • They don't believe it toilet roll holders unless you're in a commercial building
  • No power outlets in bathrooms - maybe a power outlet for an electric shaver, which has a different plug style.
Ireland:
  • Narrow roads - really narrow off the main highways - basically one lane width, but it's a two-lane road.
  •  They use KM and KM/H
  • More expensive than Scotland to eat/drink
  • Same exit marking as Scotland has (slashes as you near the exit)
  • Signs are in 2 languages: Irish and English.  As you get to smaller towns, many are in Irish only.
  • You can listen to Irish speaking radio stations
  • There are 100 K/hr speed limits which there is no way in heck you'd be able to go above 40.
  • The middle stripe on the road is white, so it's always a mystery if you're driving down a two-way road or a one-way road - just like Scotland, except narrower.
  • Late starts, like Scotland.  Even a 10K race started at 2 PM
  • They recycle, but not as heavily as Scotland
  • Tipping isn't expected here either
  • Good dairy, but I think Scotland has them beat.
  • Tattoos are popular here too
  •  No toilet roll holders here either.
  • Power outlets aren't in the bathrooms here either
  • There is a wallaby hopping around the Dublin airport - i don't care what people say.
People were lovely in both countries.  We truly enjoyed this trip.

Monday, June 13, 2016

The Skies Cried

Last full day in Ireland and the skies cried.  We were sad our vacation was over as well.  We spent the day doing touristy things.  We started off at Christ's Church Cathedral (beautiful) and took the crypt and bell tower tour for 4 Euro extra.  So glad we did.  We were even able to ring the bells!  I can't believe they let us all do that.  This bell tower has the oldest and largest collection of bells that ring full-circle.
Eric ringing the bells







 View from the catwalk to the bell tower
 View from the catwalk over to the bell tower
 The bell tower

 Gold in the crypts!




After the tour we went across the street to the Dublinia, which is a museum of the huge Viking history in Dublin.  It was super informational and we could have spent hours in there, but we only took about one and a half.
We then went to St. Patrick's Cathedral.  While standing in line for tickets we decided that it looked much like the Christ's Church... so we chose not to spend more money on it.



A short walk to Stephen's Green followed that, but before we made it there we decided to pop into a pub for a much needed coffee (I was so tired) and some lunch.  While in there, it began to fill up.  The rain had finally started.  After lunch we were right by the famous Grafton street, so we walked up that to complete our walk to Stephen's Green (a large park by Trinity College).


Once we made it to the green we decided to stop by Dawson's Pub after our friend, Tom, told us about it- the smallest pub in Dublin - and it was tiny.  About 20 seats.

Dawsons 
We spent a bit of time in there writing a gift for a friend.  Yes, writing a gift.  Can't say more now because it'll spoil the surprise. :) Post trip note: We wrote "Pete's Magic Castle" to the tune of "Puff the Magic Dragon".

We then went to the Long Hall, which is a beautifully ornate Georgian style pub and was recommended by Darren, our connoisseur's tour bartender. And of course, we ran into a brother and sister who were in our connoisseur's tour as well.  Amazing how small a world can be in a large city across the globe.
Long Hall


The evening was much like the previous evening except we did get to watch a sporting event at Trinity Pub.  We watched the opening game of the big Football finals. I wish Ireland was playing - that would have been more fun.  We then headed back towards Temple and people watched the rest of the night until we went to bed, happily ready to fly home.  Cities always do that for us.  It was a fantastic tour, but good to head home.  Stay tuned for my next post - Interesting facts we learned about Scotland and Ireland.
Hen Party in background



Enjoying live music
 Oh!  And proof that Country Road by John Denver is a THING in Ireland:


All aboard for the last stop on this crazy tour

About 15 minutes away from the castle it was foggy.  It stayed foggy about the entire way across the country toward Dublin (only 2 hours drive time).  We returned our hired car at the airport.  After about 1000 km of driving this week Eric was relieved to be done with it - not a scratch on her in all that crazy driving.  We then hopped the Aircoach express bus to downtown Dublin to find our next stay in the Temple Bar district.

So, Eric's bag was pretty heavy and it was a duffel.  So we set it on my rolley bag as we rolled around Dublin trying to find our apartment for the next 2 nights.  SNAP!  The wheel broke.  Darn..... Well, it wasn't the end of the world, but we were glad it happened this late in the game.  We could roll the bag if we angled it just right (it was a 4 wheel bag) - so I had lots of strange looks as I pushed it carefully over the rough streets.  I know they were thinking "why doesn't she just pull it behind her, stupid American..."  Something along those lines. 

Anyway.  We finally arrived about 20 minutes late and our host was also running late, so we camped out on the sidewalk in front of the Olympia Theater on Dame Street.  None of the pubs around us were open to wait in (it was 11:30AM)  Things open up late in this country.  Bobby finally arrived.  Interesting guy...  we followed him down a seedy looking ally and into a more seedy looking doorway and up a flight of stairs to his apartment.  We had a somewhat clean room and somewhat clean bed to stay in with a somewhat clean shower.  We can't say he was overly friendly, but he did point out a few places on the map and gave us some ideas of where to go.  His wifi was down - which is why these posts are coming so late...  So.. Our stay wasn't the best one, but that's OK - it makes it easier to come home. :)

We had a 2:00 ticket for the Guinness Connoisseur's Experience at the Guinness Storehouse. 


We were nervous that we were wasting our money after reviews of the normal tour, but tickets were already purchased.  We made our way on foot since a Taxi wouldn't stop (how rude...).  We arrived in enough time to make our way through the self-guided tour before the connoisseur experience.  There were 12 of us ushered into a secret locked door.  Apparently 1/2% of all the people who go to the Storehouse participate.  It's a really good tour - you should!
The Connoisseur Experience Room
We are escorted into a very nice bar with a limit of 16 seats.  Our bartender, Darren, proceeded to give us a bit of history about Guinness and then showed us the best way to taste a beer.  The taps/kegs in this room are cleaned and changed out every morning and kept at the optimum temperature.  We tried half pints of the Draught, Extra Stout, Foreign Extra Stout and Dublin Porter.  We were then taught how to pour a perfect draft and we received that pint as well, along with a free draft certificate for one of the bars in the Storehouse.  THEN we were given a choice of one of the bottles to take from our tasting (I chose the Extra Stout - it's my favorite).










By this time it's 3:15.  And we've had 3 beers... We had a 4:00 ticket time for the Kilmainham Gaol tour...  Darren assured us we were only 10 minutes away.  So, we ran up to the Gravity bar to use our free pint certificate and a 360 degree view of the city.

Gravity Bar

OK... I was sure I understood where we were going.  After all, I had spent hours planning this trip, mapping out directions from one point to the next, etc.  Well, we went the wrong way.  By the time it was 4:03 and we were sure we were in the wrong side of the neighborhood we stopped a nice lady and asked her where we should turn.  She said, "Ah, lassie, yer on the wrrong side a town, ye are. Ye need to head back to Guinness and go the other dirrrection.":(  This did not make me happy.  We were already late.  And it was supposed to be a super good tour too - reviews were phenomenal. :(
We started back to Guinness in hopes that we could get back in so we could buy some merchandise.  We had spotted a few things we wanted.  In the end, we were able to get back in (by sneaking) and we did spend more money by buying shirts, openers, etc. and then had some soup, popcorn, and another pint to salve the indignation of being lost.  Hey, don't judge - we aren't driving. :)  Also, we did not drink our way across Scotland and Ireland as some people think.  Eric was driving on super tiny winding roads.  Drinking and driving don't mix!  And we know this.

OK, back to Dublin. :)  We left Guinness when they closed, which was around 6:00 I think.  Instead of walking back, we decided to take a taxi.  Our driver suggested we try the Brazen Head while in town and we answered with a "lead on".  So he dropped us there and it was very close to where we were staying.  We didn't realize until the next day that it was the oldest pub in Dublin - 1198!.  They had very good food.  We split a burger and a salad.

We then went to Temple Bar area (where we were staying).  It was a Thursday night, but still very busy.  We knew there was a webcam, so we texted Lori and my parents so they could see us online.  And they did!  Here's a pic that Lori took of us - sitting on the outside seat under the "R" in Bar - kinda grainy... It was fun to wave at people back in the states.







Our host told us about a pub named "Cobblestone" that did true traditional Irish music.  He said that most pubs say traditional music, but they don't.  He's right... We can attest to that fact after 2 nights.  So we walked quite a ways to the other side of the River Liffey, past the Old Jameson Distillery and finally found Cobblestone.  It was packed to the gills.  We did find a seat, but we couldn't hear the music very well :(  After about an hour, we gave up and grabbed a taxi back to Temple Bar area and listened to music there before grabbing a slice of Papa John's pizza and heading to bed.




Sunday, June 12, 2016

Lasting Impressions

A morning of rest.  We lazed around in our bed until 10 AM!  It's been forever since we've done that.  We decided we'd be perfectly happy if we didn't see anything other than the castle, so the pressure of getting ready and on the road was gone.
By 11 AM we chose to go into Galway to walk around and have a late lunch/early dinner.  On the way out, we saw Pete and Ava heading the same direction.  They suggested we take a quick trip through Athenry, and why not?  We wanted to see the fields of Athenry.






We then set off for Galway.  Our first stop was the Salt Hill Prom. (come one everyone, sing with me... "And I knew right then I'd be takin' a whirl 'Round the Salthill Prom with a Galway girl...")


Swans! 
Lovely lady killing swans! (read sign... they're feeding them bread)


Lunch time!  Today we chose to have pub fare again.  It was good and filling.  Town was much like the day before, buskers on the street, people milling around and shopping, blue skies, sunburned skin.  It was quite glorious.


But we were eager to get back to the castle.  So we left about 3:30 and arrived back around 4.  Pete and Ava were about 3 minutes behind us.  This night was wonderful.  It started with chatting around the BBQ while they fixed dinner, drinking wine, visiting with a neighbor or two, watching the guys jump on the trampoline, more playing pool and having Leon win every game and it finished with guitars in the stairs.  This went on until 1:30 AM.  It was the BEST EVER!!!  I could have stayed there, enjoying these moments for days.  I'm so glad I have the memories.  The words can't possibly express the emotions and feelings of these moments.  I write them mainly for my own memory for when I get old and senile. :)

Leon and Rian

Leon - he is really good!!!!!

Pete, Leon and Eric
Leon 


Rian, Pete and Leon


Pete and his magic castle.

We spent the morning walking around Galway and enjoying an Irish coffee made by the 2nd place winner in Ireland's Irish coffee contest. It wasn't too shabby. They had these funky bent spoons that hung on the edge of the glasses and they were engraved with the restaurants name. We knew these were probably stolen on a regular basis, but we refrained from doing so ourselves. Instead, we asked the server if they sold them.  She said, "No, but hold on". She ran inside and brought out 2 clean spoons for us to have. So nice.

We tipped her well, of course, and then continued to walk around Galway dropping coins in the cases of busking musicians.  By early afternoon we were toasty warm and getting sunburned.  Yes, we were sunburned in Ireland, didn't see that one coming. So we chose lunch at an Italian joint on Quay street with a shade covering. The food was absolutely delish.

During this entire morning, we were anxiously awaiting the time we could leave and head towards our next stay, Pete's castle a.k.a. Caherkinmonwee (castle by the yellow bog).

At 3:00 we quickly trod through the cobbled streets to our car. Sean, our GPS, easily directed us to Craughwell. From there we followed Pete's written instructions. It's a good thing we had them too because Sean wouldn't have been good enough to get us there.

As we neared the castle, we could see its  Jolly Roger fluttering above the ramparts. With smiles, we turned into the lane and wound our way to its base. Two handsome guys, Rian and Leon, and who turned out to be Pete's sons, quickly greeted us and insisted they help us with our bags.  Now, we could have done it, but I have to say that it was VERY nice of them to do it. And I'm sure they were glad we packed light. It's 65 steps to the bedroom in the tower. But that's jumping ahead.
After we met Rian and Leon another gentleman came around the corner. It was Pete.  He had been working on the car, most likely lying in the dirt, because he was dusting himself off as he rounded the corner. Pete warmly welcomed us and we knew right away we'd love it here.  This family was incredibly down to earth, approachable, and clearly hard working. Our type of people. :)
I was eager to see the castle and Pete was eager to show us around and fill us in on what he'd been doing for the past 20 years.  As he began with the tale, Rian and Leon quickly made their way up the winding staircase with our bags and just as quickly returned with plenty of energy. I still have no idea how they made their way up and back so quickly.
The main item on the bottom floor was the pool table, with both sets of pool balls: regular pool balls (solids and stripes) and Irish pool balls (reds and yellows).
The next door up (about 12 steps, give or take) was a bedroom that Pete was in the middle of white washing that day to have ready two days hence for a friend. He had just applied one coat and was waiting g to do another later in the evening. 

The next door we came to led to Rian and Leon rooms. We didn't intrude there, but we can all guess what the bedroom would look like (they're 17 and 18).
Next floor was our living room, kitchen and bathroom. It was quite roomy with a large couch, fish tank, hammock, desk, table and chairs.  The kitchen was well appointed with stove,fridge,sink, and full cupboards. The amount of food they provided for us was astounding.  The bathroom was the quirkiest. Remember this was built in the 1400's. Not much indoor plumbing during those times. Pete had installed a sink and toilet which looked a bit like a king's throne. The flooring had fun tile work. Definitely a creative family.  The best and quirkiest was the bathtub, which was under a secret trap door in the living room floor. Fantastic.





There were a lot of pictures of the castle when he first acquired her and more pictures along the way. Pete did this work essentially by himself with the help of a bucket to bring stone up from the ground and his car to work the pull system. I seriously can't imagine it....well, after spending a couple of days there I can. Pete is incredibly industrious and always working or moving.

The next floor up was our bedroom.  It had a large fireplace on the far wall. The 4 poster bed, made from trees that Peter had planted and grown, was sparkling wuth little white lights. A seating area took center stage between the two.  Above the bed was a loft with another bed, which was accessed by ladder type stairs. Eric and I spent some time up there before falling asleep, just looking at the stone work and wood work that had been done. And pinching ourselves... this is a 15th century castle and we were staying in it! The warm glow of the fire log danced across the beamed ceiling.


About 7 more steps up the staircase and we were able to reach the rampart for an amazing view.
 
After we settled in, we wandered outside for a stroll through the back garden area. We followed that with a little archery( I'm pretty hopeless at it since I can't close my left eye to sight properly). Rian and Pete were quite good and Rian won the contest by hitting the coke can first.

Ava, Pete's partner, came out to say hello and chat for a bit. She has a love of reading and also writing. She is French and basically learned conversational English over the past 8 years after meeting Pete.  She was generous enough to share some of her writing with me when she heard that I write a little. Ava was just lovely, a good soul.
Side note, or not really a side note, but a major note. Rian carves stone. He told me he's done it as long as he can remember.  And he's good, really good. We purchased 2 pieces and look forward to seeing what his future holds. While we were shooting the bow/arrow, Pete saw a bit of my tattoo and asked to see more. They were surprised because someone had commissioned Rian to carve practically the exact same image. He showed a picture of it to me and it was very similar. For those of you who don't know, my tattoo is the artwork I commissioned for a book that I authored.
Rian at work



After archery, walking and chatting we then went into Leon's domain, the pool room. Where he succinctly won each game played. He's quite good.
It was about 10PM by this time and we all decided to turn in for the night. The guys had to study for exams, Pete put on another coat of whitewash, and Eric went to play a guitar that Pete had provided while I read Ava's work. Playing guitar in a castle is just cool. It sounds really good and those moments are engrained in my memory.